the local advantage

You’ve been planning your trip for the last 3 months and possibly dreaming about it for most part of the year. All those guide books you managed to skim during your escapes to the local library or bookstore made it a real challenge to synthesize centuries of culture and tradition into a super-efficient, carefully crafted tour that will have you retracing the steps of millions of tourists that have been to the big city before you. I had already written about this common travel trap in I could live here:

One could argue that the splendour of any famous landmark is constantly diluted by the ongoing attack of mass tourism, misguided by a market saturated of travel guides that most of the times reference the same top 10 or 20 landmarks not to be missed, while telling us every snippet of knowledge that travellers must know about these places, cancelling every attempt to make that experience unique.

As if facing the prospect of getting a diluted version of Paris was not bad enough, a recent analysis of the way that tourists and locals experience the same cities reveals that your quest to “experience the french lifestyle” is way off:

Blue represents locals, Red tourists and yellow might be either.  Notice dense blue clusters ignored altogether by tourists.  Courtesy of Eric Fischer.

Blue represents locals, Red tourists and yellow might be either. Notice dense blue clusters ignored altogether by tourists. Courtesy of Eric Fischer.

Imagine being able to tag along whenever you visit a city and follow the average local on a typical evening of fun, culture and social interaction; “holding hands” so to speak, or as professor Yumi Janairo Roth of Colorado prefers, asking locals to share a tiny bit of their local knowledge by drawing a map on their hands. Prof Yumi Roth asks locals to draw a "handy" map of interesting points.

While Prof. Roth’s experiment is interesting, I prefer to learn from travel bloggers that have mastered the process of immersing themselves into whichever cultures they visit. At the top of my list are Lara & Terence from the Grantourismo blog who have made a profession out of mastering the local scene wherever they go in about 2 weeks. Of all the things they do, I find it fascinating how they can connect with locals that will share the best of their cities. Across the blogosphere the Local Travel movement is well represented (special shout out to Vicky of Going Local Travel). Their proponents suggest you should always try to experience a destination by discovering the places and activities enjoyed by locals so you can begin to understand their way of life. But how can you possibly figure out where the locals are and what they do?

If Benji Lanyado can manage to convince the rest of us, all you need is a mobile phone and the right tactics for what he calls Twitter Trips or trips where any plans are forsaken for up-to-the-minute recommendations collected from locals using Twitter. After more than a year of perfecting the practice he is certain that the notion of building a realtime guide based on feedback from locals connected to the same virtual channels you use can lead to more authentic experiences that reflect the zeitgeist of a city as opposed to whatever recommendations found in guidebooks, which may be months or even years stale. Hungry? Send a tweet with your location asking locals to recommend a restaurant nearby. Feeling adventurous? Venture into the city with nothing else but an alert from one of your local “followers” about a great venue.

Of course, not all recommendations have to be anonymous and perhaps the best part of this approach is the possibility of connecting with locals even if you didn’t know them in advance. A simple “loose” virtual connection can become a strong bond once two strangers meet face to face. This could very well be the motto of the new AFAR Connect (currently in private beta), a platform for travellers to define their travel ‘personality’ and connect with like-minded locals.

In the end, our ability as travellers to uncover the side streets where locals gather to buzz around all day, is perhaps the most critical skill to immerse ourselves into a new culture. Tools and tactics will probably continue to get better, but nothing will replace the fact that you have to meet a local, captivate them with your journey and listen to their stories. You should count your travels not by the number of places you visit, but the number of shared experiences with locals, as only these will have a lasting effect on you.

In a future post I’ll summarize a lot of things I’m learning these days about finding the best hosts wherever you go. If you have met a great host or love hosting travellers, please drop me a line to participate in a new project.

the neighbourhood social network

For my last trip to New York City, I approached the planning process in a completely new way: instead of spending hours looking through dozens of sites for deals, lists of hotels, distance to landmarks, comparing prices and star ratings I used one tool: the Livability Calculator from New York magazine’s Neighborhoods issue, which I had just written about in new york’s most livable.

The online tool was designed to help New Yorkers find the best boroughs to live in, so to experience the city the way they do, I figured the best way was to follow them. Using the interactive sliders, I prioritized transit, restaurants, nightlife, diversity and green space over schools, health and definitely slided housing cost all the way to the left. The top choice: “West Village/Meatpacking”.

Meatpacking? Really? From my loyal subscription to Monocle magazine, I’ve learned that a good market can always transform a neighbourhood. Read yourself about the transformation of Cape Town as a result of the opening of “Neighbourgoods Market” by Justin Rhodes and Cameron Munro (Issue 35, pp.145). Not to forget that I spent the last 6 months arguing that St.Lawrence Market was one of the best ways to discover Toronto. Fine, let’s go to the West Village/Meatpacking.

Photo joevare @ Flickr

Photo joevare @ Flickr

The trip was superb in many ways. A few of the highlights included watching a World Cup game among another 30 or so neighbours in an improvised street theatre with a HDTV courtesy of an entrepreneurial bistro, walking the cobblestoned streets of West Village which seem to be rebelliously misaligned from the rest of the grid, discovering the new urban oasis that is the High Line, the quintessential subway adventure which included taking the express two stops too far and hanging out with long lost friends at one of the hottest unassuming Bossa Nova venues in the city.

But the prelude to all this was the firm decision to find accommodation in or around the West Village. There are a few really great hotels in the area, most of them small boutique hotels like Soho House New York or Gansevoort Meatpacking NYC. Even The Standard an iconic building right on top of the High Line could’ve been an option. But as nice as they all are, they have one problem: you’ll be looking at a bill of at least one thousand dollars for a long weekend.

isochelseaInstead, I found a nice single room in a large apartment available for US$65/night, just a few blocks away from my target area and around the corner from a subway station. The short term rental was a in a 6-story apartment building with one of those elevators with double doors you see in old movies. The building was in itself a good indicator of the awesomeness of a mature neighbourhood, as its type is the landmark of urban models that appeared at the turn of the XX century, with “high-rise” promoting density and mix use of the land.

Lately cities like New York and Paris have been trying to figure out the ecosystem of short term rentals (read update at the bottom). Perhaps under pressure from the lodging industry that finds the emerging trend troubling following one of the worst years in terms of occupation. It is ironic that some of the arguments used to counter the trend is the fact that these rentals take away inventory that would be otherwise available for residents to live in. From The New York Times: To Address Its Housing Shortage, Paris Cracks Down on Pied-à-Terre Rentals

Mayor Bertrand Delanoë ordered an agency last year to warn property owners that renting out residential apartments for less than a year at a time violated French law. The move was intended to address the lack of affordable housing in the city center.

“To live in”. The reason why those of us exploring these social networks of short term rentals find them incredibly appealing: they are a gateway to the real lifestyles of locals. No matter how many amenities a hotel offers to their guests, they can’t control the neighbourhood. Just visualize the chaos that reigns around Broadway and 7th at the street level. It is impossible to leave the lobby of any hotel without being approached by a never ending cast of characters inviting you to every imaginable show on Earth.

As Benji Lanyado explains in his recent New York Times Travel feature Europe Without Hotels:

Social B&B networks are a natural next step, imposing an important distinction: money. The new sites appeal to a traveler’s desire to see a city through local eyes (and from the vantage point of a resident’s home)

Better experience at a fraction of the cost? That is not the only reason these sites are finding great reception among the adventurous. They are also a new kind of social network, one where the people you discover in the virtual world become your guests in real life. One where the judgement you pass on the random conversations you have online will likely have a lasting effect on the friendships you develop and one that is certain to get your closer to cities around the world that you wouldn’t have considered otherwise. I’ll call it the neighbourhood social network.

I used to spend more time trying to figure out what hotel would offer the best deal, cross-referencing information from various sources, comparing their location on a map, reading countless contradicting reviews… still to be disappointed with the overall destination. In this visit to New York all my research was mostly about the neighbourhood, automatically making the whole experience far more gratifying as I clearly scored some pretty great “insider tips” from the very same people that would be my host.

The night I walked into the apartment, my host wasn’t home, but he left a small welcome note with the WiFi password and a short list of the ways in which he was making me feel home, including his mobile number in case I needed anything, at any time. That was the last on a series of communications that started a few days before my trip. Short questions brokered by the website where I found the listing meant to introduce us and give us an opportunity to decide if this was going to be “the place”. In a way I trusted him far more than I have ever trusted a concierge before.

Update from July 28, 2010: Perhaps I used a very soft tone when I said that cities like New York “were trying to figure out the ecosystem”. A bill that outlaws rentals for less than 30 days was recently signed by Gov. David Paterson. To paraphrase Arthur Frommer: Big hotels win, tourism looses. However, these are trying times. People are digging deep to figure out a way to make a decent living and paying expensive hotels, even if prescribed by law will not do. What lobbyists may have triggered is an explosion of services that will find every possible way to give tourists what they are looking for: better prices, authentic experiences, closer relationships and opportunities to venture into cities that would otherwise be prohibitively expensive in the current economic conditions. Services that are based on hosts receiving guests in their own homes are going to be much more popular as they seem to be immune to the new bill. Other entrepreneurial property owners are likely going to learn fast, so I wouldn’t assume that their inventory will be removed from the market as much as it will be morphed into hosted accommodation.

Disclosure: iStopOver is a client. The trip related in this article was of a personal nature and paid by the author.

wanted: experiential travelers

From the editorial of AFAR Magazine:

We’re looking for an elite group of curious, well-traveled, interesting, and influential people who are willing to help us test the site before we roll it out to the public in September. If you would like to throw your hat in the ring, please visit private.afar.com and fill out a questionnaire that will help us put together a group that represents the AFAR community. This is an opportunity to get in on the ground floor to influence the direction of AFAR.com, and to share your expertise with other like-minded global citizens.

Afar MagazineThe community of people devoted to writing about travel is very savvy and has found on Twitter a great way to keep tabs on the various projects going across the space. The AFAR project spread like wildfire over the last couple of months, so purchasing the most recent issue of their magazine happened without even flipping through its pages.

Yes, there are some silly editorial experiments within its pages, but mostly you’ll find well researched, professionally written articles from people on the road and not behind their desks. I’m particularly fond of the words “nomad”, “global citizen”, “cultural immersion”, ” and so most articles resonate strongly with my travel ethos. But even to the casual reader the quality of the photography will be sufficient to make things interesting. I learned a lot of things about Mexican cuisine and I am from Mexico. I found myself lost in one of the most memorable meals I’ve had in the city, reading about “Los Danzantes” in the Coyoacan area, of which I’m such a big fan.

Congratulations to the AFAR team on a great kick-off to their global journey. I hope we cross paths one day.

Hyperlocal is hard

It’s been a long hiatus from writing in this space, but as Alain de Botton says

The reason to travel: there are inner transitions we can’t properly cement without a change of locations.8:03 AM Apr 12th via web

And travel, my reliable muse, has not only brought me back to familiar places but reignited the passion for the ideas that I have developed throughout this blog.

Where were we? Oh yes, hyperlocal is hard.

The quest to assemble a local guide for the global citizen has taught me that Hyperlocal is hard. While cities have a convenient way to measure their boundaries, narrowing a particular area within a city with a very specific mindset or spirit seems a lot harder. We often fail to recognize that a lively neighbourhood is the sum of its core commercial strip, the back alleys that hide its best secrets, the surrounding residential areas that define the character of its inhabitants and the eternal flow of people that make it their favourite. Now imagine trying to define a city by one of its many neighbourhoods.

Such was the naive journey I embarqued in when decided to develop such a guide. In the process of researching some neighbourhoods I found myself knocking on doors of boutique hotels camouflaged as residences, negotiating “licensing fees” to take a few photos in amazing secret gardens, discovering the unbelievably rich history behind ancient buildings, growing frustrated with the gross inaccuracy of map services that led me to dead ends or ghost hotels (I swear, they are not there) and trying to put myself in the shoes of the brave traveler willing to go farther for the sake of a great journey.

The intent was clear: if I was a “slow traveler”, willing to invest myself into a destination, which particular area within a city would maximize my chances of understanding it? Originally conceived as a project to arm myself with plenty of good ideas for future travel, it quickly became the topic of many conversations with travel enthusiasts realizing this was a fresh alternative to the complexity of city-oriented travel guides with their endless listings.

So it is hard. Not impossible. And because I have the good fortune of being allied with a smart group of people that have devoted their careers to make travel easier, I have escalated this particular venture to the level of a business project with PlanetEye. As I write this post, the production team at PlanetEye is finishing touches to launch what is our first joint project: a mix of some of the ideas you’ve read about here and some of the content that I produced over the last months with a very interesting visual proposition and more importantly a potential business angle that will make it a viable project, allowing us to expand to many other destinations. I really hope this first venture of the Global Culture brand is embraced by the always curious global citizen.

st. lawrence preview

It is still going to take a bit more time to finish the guide to the St. Lawrence Market in Toronto, but I’m so proud of the work that has been done to date that wanted to at least give you a flavour of what is coming.

St. Lawrence Market - our photoshoot

St. Lawrence Market - our photoshoot

I’ll be giving away the guide online under a CC license, but you’ll have to wait a bit longer. If you’re a writer or photographer and would like to get involved in the production of a similar guide for your city, please let me know.

st. lawrence market teaser

coming soon: our guide to St. Lawrence Market, Toronto

coming soon: our guide to St. Lawrence Market, Toronto

If you’ve been following our Global Culture Tour, you know our second destination is the St. Lawrence Market. A very lively neighbourhood in downtown Toronto, this area will also give us a great opportunity to explore interesting attributes that make places like these desirable to the global citizen. Could one of them be a good international bookstore where you can get your latest Monocle?

coyoacán teaser

coming soon: our guide to Coyoacán, México City

coming soon: our guide to Coyoacán, México City

Although I had already shown a little preview of our first photo shoot in Coyoacán, here is another teaser. One of the reasons I’ve delayed the posting of the final photos is because we were very fortunate to gain access to a museum in the area that will give this guide a very distinct visual identity. Our crew was back in this neighbourhood just a few days ago and soon you’ll be able to enjoy a very unique journey through one of the most serene areas of Mexico City.

I can’t believe we’re already halfway through October. It’s been a while since my last photo post on a Saturday. Hope you enjoy it.